Ingredient Sleuth – Two New Finds You Must Try: Yuzu Kosho and Bonny Doon’s Verjus de Cigare

by Jacqueline Church on August 6, 2012 · 4 comments

 

Today seemed as good a day as any to start something new. Welcome Ingredient Sleuth! This will be a sometimes series in which I’ll share new things I’ve discovered or old things I believe not enough people know about. Today I’m introducing two things that are very old indeed, one is a product originating in Japan, the other harks back to Medieval European wine production. Both are pretty new to me, so I thought maybe to you as well.

Never mind the un-done items already awaiting my attention. Some things are too good not to share. Now is always better than later in my book. In fact, I’m so bad at keeping secrets I’m routinely excluded from news of surprise parties. Let’s just say patience is a virtue I’m still working on.

Today I wanted to give you a quick heads up on two ingredients that are fairly new to me, and too good to keep to myself. Both pair wonderfully with Oysters and in fact, paired together really well with a recent Oyster Century Club© tasting hosted at Janis Tester (author of the BiteMeNewEngland blog and hostess extraordinaire). The occasion that brought us together was a fantastic pig roast and the promise of meeting fine folks IRL (in real life) whom we only know in the online world. What a terrific day! Pics and post soon enough but first I must tell you about two things I think you should seek out for your pantry now.

 

Yuzu Kosho

Not the name of a new Red Sox pitcher from Japan – and much more reliable in the “things that delight us” department than those may  be – Yuzu Kosho is going to be the next chipotle in adobo type of ingredient. I doubt it will overtake Sriracha because that is just too convenient and familiar. However, I’m going to make the argument that Yuzu Kosho is poised to break out. At least, I’m doing my level best to spread the word.

What is it already – I can hear you asking, my impatient kindred spirits. Yuzu Kosho is a citrus-chile paste from Japan. Yuzu as you may know already is a bumpy citrus that looks like a gnarly lemon or lime. The zest has a fragrant and very tart scent and flavor, while the “meat” of the fruit is fairly scarce. You can buy dried yuzu zest (never tried) and it’s often a component of Shichimi (so actually, I guess I have). I recommend the fresh fruit zested, or this new favorite condiment: Yuzu Kosho. This perky little paste is my new go-to thing when I want to add a green note and some gently assertive heat. This is not like habanero peppers that whack you over the head and announce their presence. This is a sexy heat that sidles up to you, then before you know it, you’re smitten.

If you’ve enjoyed shishito peppers, or been lucky enough to enjoy freshly grated horseradish, you’ll love this.

Yuzu Kosho

Of late I have been adding this paste to fish marinades, to mignonette for oysters, and to fried chicken. It is one of these ingredients that makes people go “Oh my God, what IS that?” as they reach for more. Trust me on this one, you’ll love it. So far I can only find it at Dean & Deluca where Doc got me this surprise. One of the ingredients in this paste is Kombu which is packed with umami. This amps up the seduction by awakening those “give me more” sensors in your brain. (She’s taking some liberties with science here, yes.)

Elizabeth Andoh’s Kansha offers a recipe for “Quick Fix Pickles: Crisp and Fiery Chinese Cabbage and Cucumbers” which calls for Yuzu Kosho. It is delicious. It’s like a coleslaw without mayo. I think this condiment would also be terrific added to mayo in any old sandwich.

Post Update: 2/25/13 – just discovered this post on yuzu kosho on Harris Salat’s very excellent Japanese Food Report. (note to self, read JFR more often!) Also, I used a bit of yuzu kosho with grated daikon and drizzle of soy for a condiment for broiled fish. Also wonderful.

Verjus

Verjus (from the French vert jus literally green juice) is the pressed juice from wine grapes that are thinned out of vineyards before harvest. I like the notion that we might be enjoying something that would otherwise be wasted. I also like things that are tart, acidic and sharp. Verjus I’ve tried before have been too sweet or too tart without the fullness of vinegar. This one that David (he of EatDrinkRI fame and our very first Oyster Century Club© member!) brought to the oyster shucking pre-party was perfect. We froze it a little while and then found it mixed beautifully with the cucumber-shallot-yuzu kosho mignonette I brought.

Because the grape juice is not fermented it is non-alcoholic and also will not interfere with wines you’re drinking the way a vinegar might. I think fully frozen into a granita, this would be a wonderful addition to oysters and kept in the fridge, it could be used to heighten the piquancy of a sauce here or there, added to a salad with some extra good EVOO if you wanted a less acidic and light dressing, or it might be terrific in Sangria. Here’s an excellent introduction to Verjus if you want to read more.

Bonny Doon Verjus

 

When the Whole is Greater

So here we are at Janis & Rich’s amazing pig roast, with a delivery of 8 dozen oysters from ILoveBlueSea.com (sustainable seafood direct to your door, one flat rate, can’t beat it!) and another 2-3 from Matt’s (Wicked Random guy, that Matt) local purveyor (Duxbury and Watch Hill RI) several knives, various tools and techniques, ready to rip.

I cut up a lemon which we scarcely touched, David brought the Verjus which we poured into a dish and hid in the freezer) and I brought my favorite mignonette, Janis provided horseradish, too.

Cucumber-shallot-yuzu-kosho mignonette Cucumber, shallot, rice wine, yuzu kosho mignonette.

We pretty much tore through about half the oysters when we decided to check on the freezing of the Verjus. It was just forming crystals, and they were great on the oysters. But the pairing of the mignonette and the verjus together was magical. I could have eaten it with a spoon. On the oysters, though, the gentle heat, coupled with the sweet almost-granita really made everything sing.

One Oyster Century Club© member wanted his oysters unadorned. Go little buddy, go!

Oyster Century Club Youngest Member

 

And who can argue with that?

Print Friendly

Leave a Comment

{ 4 comments… read them below or add one }

Janis August 6, 2012 at 8:06 pm

I was in Oyster heaven. I may have eaten the leftover Yuzu Kosho on tortilla chips…. Carry on.

Reply

Jacqueline Church August 7, 2012 at 12:36 am

Janis – we were all in food heaven! All day! Glad you enjoyed the “dip” ;-)

Reply

Randall Grahm August 7, 2012 at 12:20 am

Thanks so much for your kind mention of our Verjus. Some amplification: It is made from Grenache grapes sustainably grown at the Alamo Creek Vyd. just outside of Santa Maria. These are grapes that we harvest at our second thinning pass @ approximately 16.5 degrees Brix. I am particularly partial to using it w/ sparkling water – maybe a 20% addition; very refreshing. If you can’t find it in specialty stores (good luck), you can get it on our website http://www.bonnydoonvineyard.com. Cheers

Reply

Jacqueline Church August 7, 2012 at 12:37 am

Randall – Thanks for that clarification and for the link and info. I was truly impressed and loved the pairing. That spritzer sounds like a perfect summer sipper.

Cheers!

Reply

Previous post:

Next post: