Is this not a thing of beauty?

 It's a Friday night. We have Brady and Moss on pre-season football (27-24 pyrrhic victory for Pats - Brady injured his throwing shoulder taking a shot from Big Albert Haynesworth.)

The Buffalo Chicken Sausages from DiLuigi's were fantastic. Made a Caesar Salad with cheesy garlicky croutons from my last sourdough attempt (Lalvain starter, enh) and a great martini with my new Bison Grass Vodka, courtesy of our friends Damian and Natalia. 

 

 

 Drinks and Dinner

 The Zubrowka Bison Grass vodka has a blade of bison grass in the bottle. This grass is said to impart "grand power, increase stature and youthfulness." Polish elite would celebrate successful hunts with this Bison Grass Vodka. 

Before mixing a cocktail with it, we did chilled shot to taste it. Floral nose, clean taste and smooth finish. Yes, this would be fine in a nice end of the week martini.

Dolin vermouth, pickled green tomatoes... wonderful. 

and Dessert

A bumper crop of wonderful Askinosie chocolate was crying to be transformed into brownies. So, I pulled out Mushet's Art & Soul of baking for the delicious and reliable Fudgy Brownie recipe.

To it, I add a pinch of cayenne and then swirled dulce de leche into the top before baking. It made a sticky, slightly crunchy top layer.

Riding Danny out, listening to the rain hit the windows. Maybe Tom Brady should have some Bison Grass Vodka.

 

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Knowing how I love the pig, and Craigie on Main, when Doc saw the Craigie on Main newsletter announcing the Whole Hog dinner - he immediately said "you've got to go!" Who am I to argue? After assuring me we had it in the budget for one of us to go, I graciously accepted. 

From the moment you enter Craigie, you feel well-cared for. My last visit my girlfriend and I were brought glasses of water before we even had a table. Artful, well-conceived classic and innovative cocktails are a real draw. Anticipation of what one might get to drink, taste, explore heightens the delight leading up to the dinner.

For me, good food, good drink, good service are only enhanced by the opportunity to learn something new each meal. Whether it's a fun new wine (Oltrepo Pavese from the Lombardy region in the North of Italy) or a new herb like calaminthe, or a new cocktail ingredient or combination, if you are introducing me to some new taste experience, you've got my attention. And a bit of my heart.  

Hors d'ouevres - "les Cochonailles" - Piglet's Delight

Pate de campagne, lardo, pork belly, crispy pig parts. Delicious with our libations from the bar. I could eat tons little salty pig nibbles. That reminds me of the suckling pig skin I have in the freezer. Chicharrones up soon.

 

First Course - Tortellini of Braised Pork Belly squash blossoms, squash jus, calaminthe. These delicate little tortellini were so light and the filling so luscious. I wanted to spoon every drop of the jus. Calaminte has been described as mint like or thyme-like. It was delicate to be sure. I had a glass of a nice dry, crisp Riesling.

 

Second Course - Crispy Fromage de Tête - that's head cheese, y'all. Earthy inside, crispy outside, egg to emulsify and, as David pointed out, all the components together really work well, together. 

(So fun to dine with a photographer! See me snapping this shot, check out David Dadekian's photo!)

Sunny-side up farm-fresh egg, potato-mustard puree, sauce charcutiere.

The Oltrepo Pavese was one I chose with some help from Richard Auffrey, the Passionate Foodie, a real connoisseur. We settled on this glass partly because I'd never had it before and because it was described as a light Burgundy or Pinot Noir -ish in style. The color was bright berry and the medium body worked fine with the tasty pig head.   

Third Course - Suckling Pig Head with Brains over pea greens, local black trumpet mushrooms, spiced puree of eggplant. David and I shared this entree for two. The skin was crispy and salty, the meat was tender like pork-brisket. The fat was creamy and sticky. I am hooked. The brains were served separately, and oohs, aahs and mm mms were peppered with the odd zombie jokes, natch. This was a double-first for me. Both head and brains are something I've never had. Wait. That doesn't sound right. I mean, I've never eaten a pig head nor its brains. I'd compare the brains to creamy sweetbreads. More delicate than foie but meltingly delicious. This course was truly a revelation. I wish I had another one. Right here. Right now. 

 

Dessert - Late Summer Macerated Fruits, sweet white peach soda, yogurt sorbet. When is a foam not passe and blah? When it's fizzy and fun. This was a surprisingly interesting dessert. Thin ribbons of perfect honeydew melon took me instantly to the memory of the first time I'd ever tasted the melon. 

 

Mignardises - sorry Doc, I couldn't save the pate de fruit for you. You would have loved this one. Blackberry so deeply flavored. Tea to finish the meal.

Rooibus, Rhubarb custards light and just perfectly tart and sweet these little treats came when we were certain we could eat no more. But eat them, we did.

 

Really a perfect evening all around. I'm still floating on a porcine dream. Thanks to Chef Maws, Tom Schlesinger-Guidelli, my fun dinner companions, David and Richard and of course, Doc - mwah! - for making it all happen!

 

 

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With apologies to Rick Bayless and others who prepare authentic Mexican cuisine, I'm going to use tonight's dinner to kick off a new feature. Call it...

Drinks and Dinner?

This is a riff on an old recipe I once cut out of some magazine. When I pulled it out tonight, I realized, I liked the idea of the recipe more than the actual recipe. So, I made my own meal of it.

You may have offered a cocktail post or recipe or news in the Virtual Lounge. My Facebook page I put up as salve for my wounds when I couldn't make it to Tales of the Cocktail. Come by the lounge to see what folks have shared. Killer recipe from ChezUs for the classic Papa Doble, the drink of Hemingway lore. Lauren Clark's video from the Athaneum. Know what Red Rot is? Don't you just love a story with your drinks?

The Cocktail Hour

Years ago, I used to go to Martha's Vineyard with friends each summer. After a day at the beach, we'd return home, and begin showers, drinks and apps. Another couple of us would start dinner. I loved the sunset drinks on the deck, martinis and my olive tapenade. This beautiful photo and recipe on MattBites, Green Goddess a la Mateo. Green Goddess, goodness! Remember how delicious this old recipe is?

Of course, Matt, being Matt, makes it his way. Adding a little Mexican Crema. So, I prepped some crudité and brought out my Green Goddess ingredients. I didn't have Mexican Crema but I do have good homemade mayonnaise. I have tarragon, anchovy paste (because me, being me, had to do my own thing, too) parsley, scallions... mm.

Spiced Rubbed Mexican Chicken and Corn, Bean Casserole with Tabasco Watermelon Margaritas

For the Chicken: (four skin on chicken thighs)

Make a spice paste:

• 1 tsp cumin
• 1 tsp chili
• 1/2 tsp cinnamon
• cayenne to taste
• 1 tsp adobo sauce from canned chipotles
• 2 tsp minced cilantro
• 1 tsp minced garlic
• 2 tsp each oil and lime juice
• S&P

Make spice paste and rub all over chicken. Cover and refrigerate 2 hours to overnight. Bring out of frig to warm to room temp an hour before serving. Place on oiled grill pan or roasting pan. Grill or bake at 375 until nearly done. Remove from oven, reduce oven temp. to 300. 

Prep veggies:

• 2 C Fresh or frozen corn
• 1/2 C each Red & green bell pepper
• 1 1/2 C Black beans soaked overnight and cooked to nearly done
• 1/2 C  Red onion
• 2 tsp garlic
• 1/4 - 1/2 C water or chicken stock 
• fresh or dried oregano
• 1/2 chipotle pepper (packed in adobo) minced
• 1/2 tsp cumin

In oven safe saute pan, saute pepper and onion in light oil, to soften, add beans, corn, garlic. S&P, oregano, cumin. Place chicken over vegetables, shred a little Monterey Jack over the casserole, place in oven to melt cheese. Squeeze lime over all and serve.

 

Tabasco Watermelon Margarita

For the first time in the brand’s storied 140-year history, the McIlhenny family has licensed Tabasco brand Pepper Sauce in the distilled spirits category. Tabasco brand Spicy Tequila is the result of the blending of premium tequila and the iconic pepper sauce. Founded in 1934, Heaven Hill Distilleries, Inc. (www.heaven-hill.com) is the nation’s largest independent, family-owned marketer and producer of distilled spirits products. These two products, tequila and Tabasco are a natural complement. 

This evening I buzzed up watermelon, agave syrup, fresh lime juice and Tabasco Tequila. The spicy Tequila was tantalizing with the sweet watermelon.

 

 

I've also tried the Tabasco Tequila in my Sangrita Tomatoes, and in a barbecue sauce for pork tenderloin. It's the fun Tequila, the Friday night Tequila, the with food Tequila. Ribs, barbecue, Bloody Marys. Spice it up!

 

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LDG Pimm’s Cup Cocktail

Make Ginger Ale

• Grate ginger about a large thumb-sized knob (to learn how to peel easily, see Somen post)
• Add half lemon, half lime, squeezed
• Add simple syrup to taste (about 1/3 cup of pineapple mint simple syrup)
• Add soda water to taste

Make Cocktail

• Fill tall glass with ice
• add ginger ale about 1/3 (strain if you like)
• add pimm’s about 2/3
• top with soda water

Garnish with cucumber spear or slice.
 

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Thatcher's Organic, Artisan, and Delicious, too! 

They also are members of 1% for the Planet. 

 

 

Prepare dill and chili for the glass... 

 

Rim the glass with lime or lemon juice, then dip and twist lightly in herbs and spices... 

The herbs stick to the rim... 

 

Add ice, fill glass two-thirds with Thatcher's Cucumber Liqueur, then top off with soda...

 

Take a lick and a sip! Ahhh... 

♥ Don't forget to stop by our Virtual Cocktail Lounge for some cocktails, chat, new recipes...

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Here's an excellent article on Vermouth by Kirsten Amann written for the Second Glass.

For the culinary angle see: Vermouth Rejuvenates Aromatized Wine Category, which I wrote for the Gourmet Food column.

The Second Glass were hosts to The Wine Riot which I wrote about in John Mariani's Virtual Gourmet here. "Mohawks and Merlot".

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Saw one of the best bartenders I've ever encountered, Gus Tassopulos, mentioned in a WSJ article and wrote this piece: 

Never Trust a Bartender with No Gray Hair. The Sun-Times News Group picked it up here.

 

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Just when you think bacon might be over, someone goes and makes bacon-infused gin. Talk about breakfast of champions. Read about LA Mixologist Eric Alperin's "Pickled Pig." He claims another concoction will be his entry in the Marvelous Hendrick's Limerick & Cocktail Competition.

Did anyone else notice that bacon explosion story ran the same day as the news of Bocuse d'Or? That pretty much says it all.

Here's some news you can use: 

• Cochon - It's not just a restaurant in New Orleans. (a fine one at that!) It's also a fine heritage pig celebration. Check the "Featured" box (above right) for updates on Cochon555 the traveling event, coming to Boston April 5. Between now and then I'll be profiling the chefs who will be participating right here. I'll be among the judges for the event (woot!) I'll post updates there on the event and the articles as I post them.

• Character Approved - Anyone who knows me has probably heard my rant about the homogenization of the world and my love for characters. It happens that the USA Network, whose motto is "Characters Welcome" is honoring a group of "Characters" from various fields with a brand new award. The initial field of honorees, the Character Approved innovators, includes David Chang the provocative chef behind Momofuku Noodle Bar (see my review below), Momofuku Ssäm Bar and Momofuku Ko. Stay tuned for my interview with a Michelin starred chef who says "I'm just a dude."

• Bond, Jason Bond - A recent dinner at Beacon Hill Bistro was a delightful experience. Jason Bond, Executive Chef will be one of the Cochon competitors and if the Braised Yorkshire Pork Shoulder I enjoyed is an indication of what he can do with pork, our other chefs better be ready to bring their "A" game! More on this dinner soon. Bacon Flowchart, need I say more?

See all the love brought to you by the humble pig? Gotta love it.

While I get all the facts checked and profiles scheduled, here are some other pork-centric posts to keep you going...

• Cajun Sausage from Swamp to City - Cochon gets deeper into the Charcuterie business.
• Salumi in Seattle - Me and Mr. Batali, Caleb and Culatello - what a day it was...
• Momofuku Noodle Bar - What to have for lunch before your Head to Tail dinner? Pork buns, of course!
• Guanciale Essence of Pork - Do you know the secret behind authentic Bucatini all'Amatriciana and Spaghetti Carbonara?

That's me and some American Guinea Hogs at SullBar farms in NH. Piglets!

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Is this a girl who'd say no when invited to a Don Julio dinner at Masa Restaurant in Boston? No way, José! I love Mexico and the Southwest, and culinary armchair travel.

What I expected to be some cocktails, media blah, blah, blah and chips and salsa turned into so much more. Just to be clear, I would have been happy with that because I love Masa, Tequila, chips and salsa, and media folks (well most of 'em, anyway). 

This dinner turned out to be a fantastic evening of sipping, learning, and dining. As in, please sit where your place card is and allow us to introduce the chef... The bartender will explain the cocktail he's paired with each course.

This sets a new bar. Specialty cocktails crafted to complement the menu. Printed menus to take, very helpful in an action-packed week where best intentions cannot overcome need for sleep or pre-set schedules. I have the drink recipes, too, so my notes don't have to be legible. (phew!) I had a beautiful bottle of Blanco to take home and I met a room full of great people and learned a lot about Don Julio, about how complex and food-friendly Tequila can be. 

The Dinner:

First surprise was the initial cocktail - something like a sangria. Malbec wine I believe, and Tequila, fruit. Dangerously refreshing. Uno mas por favor! Gracias!

Second surprise was being seated to what was clearly going to be more substantial than tapas. Oh.

Our first course was a hearty New England Clam Chowder with a Masa Southwest twist: smoked chili oil. The paired cocktail was a Tres Chiles Margarita. This drink pulled me to the glass - nose first, it was so amazingly fragrant. I found myself inhaling deeply as if I were testing the nose of a glass of wine. It was herbaceous and spicy. The cucumber and jalapeno, Anaheim and long peppers provided heat but more complex things, too. A revelation really.

Tacos de Carnitas con Trio of Salsas comprised our second course. Paired with it: Chipotle Tamarind Margarita. 8 months in oak gives the reposada some depth.

The third course was an "albondiga" really, a giant cheese-stuffed meatball. Served with a Classic Margarita. Too grand to be fair, at this stage. Especially w/o warning. Okay, not really complaining.

The dessert: chocolate truffle tamale was decadent and dense, in a good way. The final cocktail was savored as you would a brandy or a single malt. Though it was called vanilla, it was not powerfully sweet.

Overall, this meal was, for me one more example of the excellence to be expected at Masa. Balance is the key to their success. You can tell there are good people in the kitchen when a hearty, rustic cuisine comes through with refined and balanced flavors. Thought and care go into the cocktails as much as the food. Everyone today is weighing how to spend entertainment dollars to maximize value. A place like Masa, with such excellent food, thoughtful delicious drinks and warm service, provide great value. Escape to the Southwest for one night. You'll be glad you did!

Here is a course-by-course (w/photos!) treatment by the excellent Cave Cibum. 

Did you know?

• Don Julio is a real person? Now in his 80's he was a true pioneer who saw the future of agave. Experimented with planting, with microclimates, with harvest and distillation methods.
• Don Julio controls the entire process from growing, harvesting by hand, to distilling (each are distilled twice), bottling and so on.
• Some Agave plants are not harvested for 13 years. Aging in new American oak from 8 months to 5 years distinguishes the various Tequilas.
• The signature squat bottle was intentional to the enjoyment. Originally, he distilled this for his guests and friends. The bottle on the table was designed so as not to interfere with seeing the other guests.
• Tequila pairs well with food? Forget about silly shooters and salt - the photo above was taken years before my dinner!
• These cocktails highlighted the unique character of blanco, reposado, and añejo - blending with various cocktail components and also complimenting the food.
• Don Julio's website has recipes and videos to introduce you to the Don Julio story and product.
• Don Julio is a respected employer who foregoes much mechanization in order to employ more local people. 

Here's a recipe from the Leather District Gourmet:

In tomato season, peel a large bowl of cherry tomatoes and marinate them, chilled, in Tequila Don Julio Blanco. Serve with a dipping salt laced with lime zest and chile powder. Muy bueno! Some say the remaining liquid make for fun shooters at the end of the party. 

 

 

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Tailor was kind enough to share this recipe for the lovely and magical Pimm's Pony which, you may recall, cured my ills at the kickoff reception for Tales of the Cocktail.

Ingredients

1 Kirby cucumber, coarsely chopped
2 ounces Hendrick's gin
1 ounce Pimm's
Ice
1 ounce lemon-lime soda

Directions

Puree the cucumber in a blender. Strain the puree through a fine sieve, pressing to extract as much juice as possible. Transfer the juice to a jar with a tight-fitting lid.
In a cocktail shaker, combine the gin and Pimm's. Add ice and shake for 20 seconds. Strain the drink into a tall glass over ice and top with the soda. Vigorously shake the cucumber juice for 30 seconds. Spoon some of the foam onto the drink and serve right away.
 

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