Harissa Comes Out of the Closet

Spring Cleaning includes the Pantry. I recently wrote a piece on Nourish Network - Spring Pantry Cleaning Reinvigorates Your Cooking -  that asked readers to submit their suggestions for the item in their pantry that needs to get used but for which inspiration seems gone. Two readers had jars of harissa in their pantries and wondered what to do with them. Check out that post for tips on other pantry items and how to use them.

Harissa at My House

I wanted to try my hand at creating harissa from the dried peppers and sun-dried tomatoes I had in my pantry. This is my new favorite condiment. Mixed with mayo (try this fantastic easy homemade version) and slathered on a sandwich or burger it's divine. Mixed with yogurt in a sauce or dip, lovely. I marinated fish in it, then created a sauce by swirling some yogurt into it.

Harissa adds a powerful flavor punch to mild white fish, to grains, to sauces and dips. Think of it as revved-up ketchup. In fact, you can use harissa much like you would use ketchup, Tabasco or Sriracha: on burgers, over scrambled eggs, in deviled eggs. Thin it with olive oil and roast a chicken with it. I marinated turkey cutlets and chicken kabobs in it for Doc to eat during my IACP conference.


Leather District Gourmet's Harissa

modified from Amy Scattergood’s recipe

Ingredients:

• 4 oz. dried chiles (New Mexico, Guajillo, Chipotle, Ancho, rehydrated)
• 5 cloves garlic
• 1 1/2 tsp kosher salt
• 1 1/2 tsp caraway seeds, toasted, freshly ground
• 1 1/2 tsp coriander seeds, toasted, freshly ground
• 2 TBSP olive oil
• 1 dozen sun-dried tomatoes (Roma) rehydrated, save 2 TBSP liquid
• 2 medium red bell peppers roasted, peeled

Technique:

1. Soak chiles, sun-dried tomatoes in very hot water.
2. Roast bell pepper under broiler until skin chars and blisters. Place in paper bag to steam, skin will slip off easily after it cools.
3. Toast caraway and coriander seeds in dry skillet. Cool and buzz in spice blender or grind with mortar and pestle.
4. Give garlic a rough chop, place in food processor with chiles (after you remove stems and slip most of the seeds off with your fingers.)
5. Add salt, spices, olive oil, tomatoes, bell peppers.
6. Pulse until you have thick paste, use soaking liquid to thin out, if necessary.

I used this as a marinade (thin 2 TBSP Harissa with 1/2 C cold water) for 1 1/2 lb MSC Sole Fillets. Marinate for 30 minutes then saute in olive oil. Simmer marinade to thicken slightly, adding yogurt at end to taste. Drizzle over fish and serve.

Typically, cous-cous would accompany the protein, or be the main course in North African meals. Here, I substitute quinoa which has a lovely little crunch that is wonderful foil to the fish.

• To find excellent dried chile peppers see Earthy Delights

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Jacques Pepin's Ballotine of Chicken

Jacques Pepin teaches Ballotine of Chicken at the New York Culinary Experience - and I was there!

The annual weekend called The New York Culinary Experience is a fundraiser for the school's scholarship fund and is co-sponsored by New York Magazine. See Up Close and Personal with Renowned Chefs.

You can get a feel for the class by watching the slide show below. For step-by-step instructions see Iconic Chef Jacques Pepin Demonstrates Ballotine. You can also see the true Cassoulet from Gascony, taught by Ariane Daguin.

Dorothy Cann Hamilton founded The French Culinary Institute in 1984. I got the chance to chat with her upon her induction into the James Beard Society's Who's Who list. (See the full interview in my Gourmet Food column: James Beard Inductee: Dorothy Cann Hamilton - Who's Who Honoree - On Wanderlust, Recessions and a Perfect Peach.

Along with master chefs Alain Sailhac, Jacques Pépin, André Soltner and Jacques Torres, the school’s 14,000 graduates include young innovators like David Chang, Bobby Flay, and Wylie Dufresne.

André Soltner, me, Cesare Casella

This is just the second year and it sold out completely. I talked with "students" who were clothing designers, prostodontists, landscape architects, programmers, bartenders, retirees. It's hard not to be gobsmacked walking the halls and seeing the culinary stars. The most amazing part of being there is that the staff are all so open, friendly, accessible. They are obviously friendly and respectful of each other, too. It's a beautiful atmosphere and the whole weekend carried an extra charge with eager students (and equally eager press) in attendance.

In 2006 Nils Norén Formerly of Aquavit joined the school as VP of Culinary and Pastry Arts bringing his considerable industry experience to the school’s curriculum. Also in 2006, The Italian Culinary Academy launches at The International Culinary Experience with renowned Italian chef Cesare Casella as its Dean. The first program to launch is the Italian Culinary Experience program, the first-of-its-kind that combines hands-on study in cuisine, language and culture at The Italian Culinary Academy in SoHo and ALMA, The International School of Italian Cuisine at  in Colorno, Italy, followed by an optional nine-week stage at a top-rated restaurant in Italy.

cocktail anyone?

True Tuscan at work (also the name of his cookbook)

Feeling for pin bones

Holding the tail end with his left hand he gently pulled the knife across the side in a back and forth sawing motion.

Making ribbons of cucumber.

Chopping chives.

...et Voila! Gravlax, Salmon Tartar - very easy to make and great luxury for entertaining. The bread was spread with a radish butter, stacked and cut into these seasoned slices for serving the salmon.

All very easy to do ahead.

This NYCE weekend was heady stuff. Everyone I spoke with was having a blast, excited by what they were learning and thrilled with who they were learning it from. It's really a unique weekend. What a great gift for a special birthday or anniversary or say Christmas?

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Exciting news here: I'm now a contributing writer at the Nourish Network site recently launched by my friend Lia Huber. I'm thrilled to be in such good company (just look at the contributor bios!) and my first article is on Demystifying Umami.

Along with the article, I contribute a recipe for Umami Stuffed Mushrooms -Here are a few shots taken during preparation.

Parmigiano-Reggiano is one of the most umami-dense foods there is!

After researching the article, I decided to do a pictoral essay of Umami anyone might have in their pantry or refridgerator. Picture This: Umami is Everywhere also launches a new feature. From time to time you'll see a picture-by-picture food story.

Hope you enjoy these posts and look for my next post on Nourish Network on my Thanksgiving traditions. The site is full of great content about how to have more mindful meals, how to nourish yourselves while eating in eco-friendly ways. It's a great group and the conversation is growing. Join in now (before Dec. 31) and you'll automatically be entered into a contest for a trip to wine country!

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Recently, I began as a contributing writer for Nourish Network. My first article is: Demystifying Umami. Stop by and sign up, join discussions about ecofriendly and mindful eating, healthy bites and nourishing words. It's a place for recipes (I contributed Stuffed Mushrooms) and for discussion.

Today, I received Elizabeth Andoh's wonderful Taste of Culture email with a wonderful description of different types of miso and a recipe for nasu or Japanese Eggplant simmered in Miso. I was compelled to share, with Elizabeth's permission the eggplant recipe and more tips on umami. Read: The Great Umami Caper.

Writing these two pieces, it occurred to me that there is umami in everyone's pantry, kitchen cabinet or fridge. It's part of what makes our favorite foods so delicious. Just this afternoon I sat in on an IACP Teleforum lead by the force of nature, Jaden Hair of Steamy Kitchen. One of the many nuggets of wisdom she shared is that we are working in a visual medium. People love photographs. So this post was born.

My visual homage to Umami with thanks to Jaden!

All American Umami: Ketchup

Italian Umami: Tomato paste, anchovy, capers, Parmigian-Reggiano, dried porcini

Dashi ingredients at the heart of Dr. Ikeda's discovery: Kombu (the best is from Hokkaido which apparently also produces best Grandmas), shaved Bonito, dried anchovies.

The Umami Pantry: Clockwise from bottom: Anchovy paste, Maggi Seasoning, Fish Sauce, Oyster Sauce, Worcestershire Sauce, Tamari, Marmite

Bottom to top: Fermented Black Garlic paste, Tomato paste, Veal Demi-glace, Shiro Miso, Salted Capers

Korean, Italian, French, Japanese, Italian...your pantry.

See, it really is everywhere.

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We got there late, the sun was almost gone and there were loads of tourists -- but I still managed to squeeze off a few shots that are decent. Please forgive poor lighting and cropping, and enjoy.

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I've just had the best time watching this dog romp in the snow. I felt so happy after watching it, I thought "hm, I should share this with everyone and I should be sure to file it somewhere for  the next day that the blues start creeping near."

I give you Bailey the Unknown Reindeer...

We should all be so happy! Wishing it for all of you.

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Me with penguins on Antarctica landing

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