Boston Magazine just popped in my in box, with a blurb about open kitchens. I love the concept and here's the comment I left:

Craigie on Main, photo credit Boston Magazine

I love open kitchens. The main thing it tells me is confidence. The chef has confidence in his staff. The staff are confident in their skills and the system they're working in. If you see a smooth functioning open kitchen you can bet that hours of good solid management and training go on behind the scenes. No place to hide. And don't we all want a little more transparency and authenticity these days?

 

What do you think?

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Taking Thyme

 

 

Pasta Puttanesca, Crostata and Being in the Moment

The day didn’t start so auspiciously. Putting away dishes before I’ve had a full cup of coffee, a bowl slips and crashes. Luckily it wasn’t a special one, but it was an all-purpose, one we use a lot. Oh well. It’s a gorgeous day and I have just enough time to finish the crostata and shoot it in the perfect light before I scoot out the door to my appointments and errands.

Of course, I didn’t really have “just enough” time, I just made myself believe I did, because I really wanted to see the crostata in the late morning light. Then, I decide some of my last thyme would be lovely with the Italian plums and some balsamic. A little leftover jam from a friend was the inspiration (yes, Chez Us you know who you are!)

So in goes the lovely crostata, while I pop a shower.

Out we both come. And it’s photo shoot time. Of course, it’s really about time for me to be out the door. I start scaling back the “to do before I go list” - how much makeup do I really need? How perfect must the hair be? No time for second cup of coffee, I can get that out...Did I mention the gorgeous light this morning?

Flying out the door once a few shots are shot. All I could do not to eat it with another cup of that joe...

Trying to email on iPhone while crossing the Surface Rd is nothing short of suicidal, but you know, that Chicago workshop is coming up fast. Did I get so-and-so’s email yet? Did I send all the follow ups yet from the Boston show?

I imagine which stop is closest to the first appointment and jump on the Orange line. To be more precise, I enter the station. Wrong direction, but catch myself before paying. “Outbound” is meaningless when you’re in the heart of downtown. BOTH directions are outbound. Just sayin’...

Right direction. I’m there just in time to make my 1200 appt. But the train refuses to come. No, I cannot help you - skinny dude who needs train fare. I ask the booth attendant if the train is working. Yes. How frequently the train runs? Not very. Great.

Then it comes. I note that my stop is just three away, I might just make it. (Already the wheels are turning, I realize that I will never leave more time to get to this destination because I know that I can make it in less than a half hour even if the train is late. Which it is. And even if I haven’t actually arrived on time, which I won’t. But the wheels are turning.)

I have an intermittent signal so I try to get another email out. There’s my stop. Out I go.

Hm. This...doesn’t....look like ...the right station. First mistake. (Well, second, if you count that I went into the wrong station first. Or third mistake, if you count that I stayed home too long baking and photographing...)

Now I have decided that I’ve taken the wrong train, but I think I know just where I am and start walking. And emailing, of course. I call the appt and let them know I’ve made the foolish mistake of jumping on the wrong train, but tell them I’m probably 7 blocks away, will be there soon. No problem they can fit me in at 1215 instead.

But then I realize nothing is looking familiar as it should since I’VE LIVED IN THIS CITY FOR OVER TWO DECADES. Do I check the GPS on my iPhone - of course not.

A young woman shoots me that “Sister, you are SO lost” look and I realize she is correct.  I consult the GPS and realize I’ve walked now several long blocks IN THE WRONG DIRECTION. I cross the street and turn around attempting to reorient myself and suddenly from behind the truck unloading booze at the liquor store, “Hey Sweetie, how about a nice gold necklace?”

Not even kidding. He’s not threatening, very polite almost laughing at himself. Then quickly he calls out to someone else and he’s off as I give him that half polite, half eye-roll look and keep walking. Like I know where I am or how to get where I’m going.

At this point, I’m pretty sure the first appt is shot. I try to keep myself from spiraling into "what a shitty day" mode, and note how nice it is out. Really glorious Fall day. And we’re walking.

And walking. Now I see a landmark I recognize, but it is in the wrong direction. Completely. Who moved that tower? Oh. Uh oh. I am so ridiculously not in the right spot but at least now I have my bearings and I’m off.

No cabs in this part of town and no bus stops that I can see, so I’ll just walk briskly and try to not make myself crazy. Almost two miles later and half an hour late I arrive at the first appointment which they graciously let me keep though I am 30 minutes late.

The second, the third. Then off to the tailor, who I believe is on Gloucester - or is it Hereford? I head off toward Gloucester. But I don’t see his sign. I head back toward Hereford hoping no one in the shop has seen me double back after I’d regaled them with the saga of the morning commute.

I head back to Gloucester and find him (sans sign)in the same building different unit. We catch up, he’s now married and has a daughter. When I saw him last he was just about to leave to meet his wife, then he was a little apprehensive since it was a blind date sort of arrangement with old school marriage fixer upper types involved. The good news. They are in love and so happy.

I walk home, enjoy the afternoon. Grab an olive roll from the Farmers’ Market. Pick up some chocolates for my sweetie. Since I’m eating alone tonight I have options. I decide to make Pasta Puttanesca. Doc’s not crazy about the dish so it’s a perfect one to make for myself. I have a bit of hot cappicola that’s a little dry now, that’ll go in. Have some lovely salted capers, some nice anchovies, a handful of olives and some tomatoes I’d opened and not needed. Perfect. Pop open some wine (Chilean Carmenere) and decide I can put the freaking phone down, enjoy a calm glass of wine while I prep.

Dinner was great and the secret to Puttanesca* is that it packs a triple or quadruple umami punch: olives, anchovies, tomatoes, Parmigiano-Reggiano. I would guess that capers themselves also have some umami.

So once I focused on the cooking, the wine, and the crostata dessert I could laugh remembering the staff at the first appointment telling me next time I could bring a gold chain in lieu of tip...

Pasta Puttanesca to calm a harried girl...

1. Pour a glass of wine.
2. Put the pasta water on to boil.

3. Mash:
two anchovy fillets
4-5 cloves of garlic

4. Sauté
half an onion, sliced thin half an onion (working girls would not waste what was hanging out in the fridge)
and anchovy in a couple tablespoons of olive oil. As they begin to soften,

5. Add
garlic
~1/3 - 1/2 cup olives pitted and rough chopped
2 teaspoons red pepper flakes

6. Deglaze
with ~1/2 cup of hearty red wine.

7. Add

tomatoes - if whole crush with hands.

2 tablespoons salt-dried capers, soaked, drained

If fresh herbs are handy - chop and add. Today, I had about a tablespoon of chopped fresh rosemary, 1/4 cup of parsley, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano.

 

Oregano blossoms

Toss with pasta, grate Parmigiano-Reggiano on top. Enjoy.

* The story of puttanesca is that it was a sauce made with pantry items and in a hurry so the working girls could whip it up between clients. I’d like to imagine the dish gave them a few moments’ peace in a busy day, as it did me.

Crostata for dessert. Liking the thyme and balasamic with the plums. Very much.

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To be asked "when the next workshop would be taking place" and "could it be after the holidays, please?" was simply music to my ears. 

Monday the 28th of September, I gathered two dozen chefs at the gorgeous Fairmont Battery Wharf in my first live event on the topic of sustainable seafood. Among the participants were Executive Chefs and Line Cooks, single proprietors and employees of large properties. Veteran sustainability advocates and folks taking their first steps on the path to more sustainable menus. Most everyone indicated they'd learned something new.

This was due to the excellent panel of presenters who generously donated their time delivering up-to-the-minute information and cutting-edge resources designed specifically to meet the needs of culinary professionals.

Executive Chef Brendon Bashford, Fairmont Battery Wharf: Shared what the Fairmont Battery Wharf has been willing to do, such as eliminating endangered species like bluefin tuna and Chilean Sea Bass from the menu. For those starting out on the path to sustainability, it was good to hear the encouragement. And for those already engaged in sourcing sustainable seafood, reinforcing that "small steps toward sustainability" as both necessary and possible, was an equally welcome message.

Lydia Bergen, Assoc. Dir. for Strategy and Outreach Sustainable Fisheries Initiative, New England Aquarium: Described the work of the New England Aquarium from penguins and public awareness to research, advocacy and conservation. She highlighted the steps that chefs could take to move toward more sustainable menus and invited active participation in the work of the Aquarium. At least two in the audience (Andy Husbands and Jose Duart) are already doing so with the celebrate seafood dinner series.

Carol Devine of Australis Barramundi, The Better Fish: Reviewed both the problems and the promise of aquaculture, taking us through the features of sustainable aquaculture as practiced by The Better Fish. As the Boston Globe noted Monday morning the world's appetite for fish will cease to be met by wild caught fish. The question becomes how will aquaculture be managed. 

Leigh Belanger, Program Director for the Chefs Collaborative: Provided the Seafood Solutions report to all participants and presented the brand new on-line sustainable seafood educational tool called Green Chefs/Blue Ocean, developed in partnership with Blue Ocean Institute. Some of the participants are thinking of using it as a staff training tool which would be a fantastic outcome for the day.

Jason Clermont, also of the Conservation Department of the New England Aquarium: Walked us through the new sourcing service FishChoice.com. Several chefs were eager to give it a test drive and were able to do so on laptops in the room. I was delighted to have these new hands-on tools presented to chefs, many of whom were unaware of them prior to the day.

 After the presentations, participants got to use my Macbook to give FishChoice.com a test drive, others caught up with presenters, and many went home with fresh or frozen barramundi courtesy of the Australis Barramundi folks.
 

 

As we wrapped the afternoon, I tried to chat with as many of the participants as I could before they left. Several asked what our next topic would be. Noodling over Community Supported Fisheries which some chefs have been trying out. Other ideas?

 L to R: Jason Clermont, Carol Devine, Lydia Bergen, Brendon Bashford, me, Leigh Belanger, Elyse Antrim. Thanks to Suzanne Wenz, our able photographer!

 

Just in time for the workshop, I was able to get these nifty USB flashdrives created and loaded with materials from our sponsors and presenters. Included on the reusable flash drives were the following items:

• Chefs Collaborative Seafood Solutions report (also available here at their website)
• Alaska Seafood Spice Pantry Chart & Brochure (co produced with the CIA), Seafood Sustainability Brochure
• Blue Ocean Institute Overview of Green Chefs/Blue Ocean
• FishChoice.com Online Sourcing Guide and Screenshot
• MSC Foodservice Quick Guide
• Australis Barramundi presentation on aquaculture
• Overview of Teach a Man to Fish

 

 I'm so grateful for the support of our sponsors, our hosts, and our chefs for their enthusiasm. And now, Chicago - Lookout here we come!

•  Submit your sustainable seafood recipe to the blog event: Teach a Man to Fish - going on now!

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Knowing how I love the pig, and Craigie on Main, when Doc saw the Craigie on Main newsletter announcing the Whole Hog dinner - he immediately said "you've got to go!" Who am I to argue? After assuring me we had it in the budget for one of us to go, I graciously accepted. 

From the moment you enter Craigie, you feel well-cared for. My last visit my girlfriend and I were brought glasses of water before we even had a table. Artful, well-conceived classic and innovative cocktails are a real draw. Anticipation of what one might get to drink, taste, explore heightens the delight leading up to the dinner.

For me, good food, good drink, good service are only enhanced by the opportunity to learn something new each meal. Whether it's a fun new wine (Oltrepo Pavese from the Lombardy region in the North of Italy) or a new herb like calaminthe, or a new cocktail ingredient or combination, if you are introducing me to some new taste experience, you've got my attention. And a bit of my heart.  

Hors d'ouevres - "les Cochonailles" - Piglet's Delight

Pate de campagne, lardo, pork belly, crispy pig parts. Delicious with our libations from the bar. I could eat tons little salty pig nibbles. That reminds me of the suckling pig skin I have in the freezer. Chicharrones up soon.

 

First Course - Tortellini of Braised Pork Belly squash blossoms, squash jus, calaminthe. These delicate little tortellini were so light and the filling so luscious. I wanted to spoon every drop of the jus. Calaminte has been described as mint like or thyme-like. It was delicate to be sure. I had a glass of a nice dry, crisp Riesling.

 

Second Course - Crispy Fromage de Tête - that's head cheese, y'all. Earthy inside, crispy outside, egg to emulsify and, as David pointed out, all the components together really work well, together. 

(So fun to dine with a photographer! See me snapping this shot, check out David Dadekian's photo!)

Sunny-side up farm-fresh egg, potato-mustard puree, sauce charcutiere.

The Oltrepo Pavese was one I chose with some help from Richard Auffrey, the Passionate Foodie, a real connoisseur. We settled on this glass partly because I'd never had it before and because it was described as a light Burgundy or Pinot Noir -ish in style. The color was bright berry and the medium body worked fine with the tasty pig head.   

Third Course - Suckling Pig Head with Brains over pea greens, local black trumpet mushrooms, spiced puree of eggplant. David and I shared this entree for two. The skin was crispy and salty, the meat was tender like pork-brisket. The fat was creamy and sticky. I am hooked. The brains were served separately, and oohs, aahs and mm mms were peppered with the odd zombie jokes, natch. This was a double-first for me. Both head and brains are something I've never had. Wait. That doesn't sound right. I mean, I've never eaten a pig head nor its brains. I'd compare the brains to creamy sweetbreads. More delicate than foie but meltingly delicious. This course was truly a revelation. I wish I had another one. Right here. Right now. 

 

Dessert - Late Summer Macerated Fruits, sweet white peach soda, yogurt sorbet. When is a foam not passe and blah? When it's fizzy and fun. This was a surprisingly interesting dessert. Thin ribbons of perfect honeydew melon took me instantly to the memory of the first time I'd ever tasted the melon. 

 

Mignardises - sorry Doc, I couldn't save the pate de fruit for you. You would have loved this one. Blackberry so deeply flavored. Tea to finish the meal.

Rooibus, Rhubarb custards light and just perfectly tart and sweet these little treats came when we were certain we could eat no more. But eat them, we did.

 

Really a perfect evening all around. I'm still floating on a porcine dream. Thanks to Chef Maws, Tom Schlesinger-Guidelli, my fun dinner companions, David and Richard and of course, Doc - mwah! - for making it all happen!

 

 

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This post by Kim O'Donnel which ran in the Huffington Post, The United States of Canning, explains the genesis of an event coming soon to Boston/Somerville!

For me, a canning novice with a too-tiny kitchen, I want to go and learn from others what I can. But, given the circumstances I don't expect I'll be doing a whole lot of canning myself. I promise to bring you an overview of the day, however and it looks to be a great one at that.

Just check out Linsey Herman's Cake and Commerce blog here, Join the Canvolution.

→ Note: this event is sold out. If you want to get on a waitlist or let Linsey know we should have a second event, please go to her blog via one of these links and do so!

# # #

For me, the idea of self-sufficiency is so appealing. Confidence in the kitchen, access to wholesome food year-round, and saving money; these are all bonuses. Right now I have homemade yogurt, mayonnaise, sourdough bread in my kitchen as well as jams/preserves from three friends. A friend was ribbing me about becoming a hippie housewife and then I pointed out that I can bake bread for pennies, make mayo with good eggs and quality oils, and my yogurt is made from Richardson's 2% and costs pennies. It also all tastes wonderful. 

If you're interested and intrigued - stay tuned, I'll be posting after the event, too. 

 

Other links:

Canning Across America

 includes recipes and posts by the likes of John-be-still-my-heart-Besh and lots of great resources

Kim O'Donnel on HuffPo covers the genesis of the event 

Edible Boston Canning Preserving Event. 

New England Organic Farmers' Association Food Preservation Event.

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I love being invited to someone's mother's house for dinner. You know you will be lovingly and well-fed, cared for like you are family.

Angela's Cafe in East Boston, feels almost like that (but for the bill...)

First of all, you can see the kitchen and Angela herself. There she is, made-up and dressed as if she were on her way out to dinner somewhere herself, saw you coming and threw an apron on to whip up your dinner.

Throughout our meal I was mesmerized watching her pat tortillas out rhythmically slapping them gently from hand to hand. It's a motion I'm certain she could do in her sleep. Other times, I saw her carefully pinching the edges of a another tortilla for what I later learned are gorditas. And speaking of gordita, it means fat or chubby in Spanish, but in a much more endearing way than it comes across in English. I was slightly more gordita after dinner at Angela's than I was when I entered. And also happier.

I went with Doc and our friend Linda and we relied somewhat on our GPS guide to find it. It helps to know that Angela's is really a corner spot in a residential neighborhood. We learned it started as a breakfast joint. One or two Mexican dishes were served to friends or family and little by little the locals asked about trying this or that. I'm glad they asked. 

On this, our first visit, we were eager to try as many things as we could. For many of us, reading Frank Bruni's recent column about the failure of communism as writ in the behaviors of dining companions, (see Critic's Notebook: What they brought to the table), was reminiscent of bad dates. Surely someone who refused to share tastes or choose their meal in a coordinated strategy was going to be no fun away from the table either. It was as good a litmus test as any other for weeding out incompatible dates...but, I digress.

Our strategy was unified and unspoken. The only job was to figure out the top nine or so things we had in agreement and any singular needs of the party. Because I'm such a fan of avocados, that was was a given. The staff pounds your guac to order in an authentic molcajete. It's delicious and a complete mystery to me where they are getting ripe avocadoes in Boston. As it was my first visit, I decided not to ask for family secrets.

To start:

• Michelada - definitely a "when in Rome" choice beer, lemonade, hot sauce and salt. Oddly refreshing on a hot night.
• Chips - we found the guacamole so good we probably had three baskets of chips to scrape every morsel out of the molcajete

Appetizers:

• Tamale - best one outside of Cali (said the two Californians I was dining with) or Mexico 
• Nopales salad - cactus paddles, mildly herbaceous and slightly citrusy, the salad also had small cubes of cheese 

Main courses:

• Enchiladas adobo - this sauce makes the "adobo" sauce your chipotles come packed in, seem bland. spicy, with just the right amount of heat
• Angelas Molé Poblano - this is really Angela's signature dish. I asked about the nuts and was told quite a few are used in the making of it, as I know is the case with many molés. After a few bites (I had to try it!) my throat was tingling and later my lips looked slightly plump, like a budget conscious surgery victim...But, let me say this to anyone without the anaphylaxis excuse: try this molé. I actually took Angela's son aside and said "Please tell Angela, I tried the molé. It was so amazing, if I die from it, it will have been worth it.
• Chile rellenos - these were fried flattened out in an unusual way, or at least one that we hadn't seen. They were also delicious with that delicate heat these chiles (Poblanos, I think) have.

Dessert:

• Chocolate bread pudding - might be a better choice for a winter meal, there's also a flan.

As we were settling the check, Doc was on his way to start the car and get the AC going, but he was asked to stay. We had been inquiring about other dishes coming out of the kitchen and I asked what the delicate pinching was I saw Angela doing around something that looked like a tortilla but smaller. It was a gordita. Angela was tickled by our enthusiasm and questions and insisted on offering us a Gordita to try, apologizing for serving it after dessert. 

In truth, we were all too full. But if Mamá is offering, how can you say no? Guess who took one for the team and ate the whole thing? It was delicious.

Gorda y Feliz! Muchas Gracias, Angela!

My friends Denise and Laudolino just posted their own veggie enchilada recipe. If you're in the mood for some Mexican food but don't live near East Boston, why not give this a try at home?

•  To try some great Mexican Veggie Enchiladas at Home see Chez Us here: Zucchini and Red Pepper Enchiladas with two Salsas.

 

Angela's Cafe

 

East Boston
131 Lexington St
Boston, MA 02128
www.angelascaferestaurant.com

 

 

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What happens when you don't really have a dinner plan firmly in mind, wake up from a nap a bit groggy, and discover a new Asian grocery store all in one day? 

I was so excited to discover Reliable Market in Union Square, Somerville. Actually, it was my wonderful husband who did the research and found it. One would think I would have done so, ages ago when Kotobukiya closed (see Sayonara Kotobukiya). But no. We are coming to the end of our Koda Farms rice (still the best in my opinion) and with the closing of the Porter Square store we were running out of options. Sure there's Chinatown, but what if I want more than Kikkoman as an option for Japanese soy sauce? What if I want Japanese rice? What if I want somen or other things like Kombu or kaiware (daikon sprouts)?

After the dispiriting experience last weekend when we found the Super 88 stores are on their way out (an Asian grocery with NO rice? Hello?), we had begun ruminating about the lack of good, Asian grocers. Doc took the initiative to find the Reliable Market. It's Korean owned and operated for 25 years.

Korean owners means we have the:

Wall o' kimchee:

 

As well as TONS of other Korean food supplies. It was clean, well-organized, and fully stocked. I'm very happy.

We were excited to find some Koshihikari rice which is thought by many to be a superior rice. As compared to my beloved Koda Farms rice, I would say they look similar in terms of whole grains vs. broken (to my naked eye) but this rice is not organic, nor do I have any idea if there is a family farm that my purchase supports. For those of us in the Boston area, I just want to share this market as an option for buying most of what we used to find in Kotobukiya.

Look at this great listing of ethnic stores in the Union Square area. Just missed the tour, but one can do a self-guided tour easily enough. I'm definitely going back for my curry leaves in the Indian store and urad dal...I know there's a bus that goes into Union Square but I've heard it can be tricky to find your stop. If you're heading to Union Square, you can find directions here. Looks like the 86 Sullivan Square bus from Harvard Square will get you there. I walked from Central once, (for the ONCE dinner) it seemed too long to recommend that as a route!

Another find there was the Macchu Pichu restaurant with their famous Peruvian Chicken. Make an afternoon of it, grab lunch then groceries. Or, stop by Ronnarong for some Thai "tapas". This Union Square Main Streets website is packed with fun and useful information about this community. It's really changed since my first visits there, let me tell you!

Getting Back to the Spam & Lamb

The uninitiated might not know that Spam - the canned "luncheon meat" which is the butt of so many bad jokes - is actually an upscale delicacy in Korea. I'm not even talking the drought-starved North, in the cosmpolitan South Korea, spam is a treat. At Christmastime, elaborate gift boxes are stacked in the high-end stores. I kid you not. Don't believe me? Read Stars & Stripes Spam I Am.

My own history with Spam goes back at least as far as when we lived in Hawaii. Fried Spam sandwiches were a great treat. (w/yellow mustard, please. White bread, of course, lightly toasted.) Like Scrapple, the Pennsylvania Dutch version of downmarket forcemeat, Spam gets a nice little crispy crust when you fry it. Coupled with the fatty, porky, salty goodness...well, no matter how gourmet you may think I am, I will not turn my back on Spam. Besides, in a weird way, I think it represents a whole hog utilization philosophy that even the biggest food snobs ought to be able to get get behind. And we probably DO get behind in Spam, if you know what I mean. Best not to think to hard on that.

So this weekend Doc came home with some gorgeous lamb chops and I totally forgot about them. We came home from our Reliable Market shopping and loaded with a bag of fresh rice, fresh kimchee (is that an oxymoron?) and takwon (that hideously yellow, delicious pickled daikon)- it wasn't even discussed or debated. Out came the rice cooker. As I assembled "our" dinner, I realized that Doc would not find much to eat in the spread I was preparing. In fact, the cold tofu with ginger and Tamari, the pickled daikon, the kimchee are all things he doesn't eat. So I started casting about for a suitable protein for the poor boy to have with his rice. All I could find in the cupboard was Spam. 

Now, he likes Spam well enough so I couldn't understand his disappointment when I announced it was on the menu. Other than the fact that we didn't have an array of panchan (pickled sides) to accompany his rice and Spam meal. Oh yeah, and other than the fact that we had GORGEOUS LAMB CHOPS in the fridge! Just butchered the day before, they were beautiful. More caffeine, please.

We munched on our crudite and Green Goddess dip while the aroma of freshly steamed rice filled the house, and I set about preparing the lamb chops. I set aside the panchan and tofu for a weekday lunch sans husband.

Dinner ended up a rather odd, global assortment of things: 

• Crudite of vaguely Franco-American origins (hey, there was a good bit of Tarragon involved, that counts. And Fennel for dipping along with radishes, carrots, green beans.)
• Japanese Koshihikari rice.
• Lambchops with an improvised chimichurri-like condiment. I deglazed the pan with red wine, thickened with cold butter, so there was a little pan sauce. In truth, it was the chimichurri that really made the chops sing. 
• Spanish wine: Don Ramon Campo de Borja 2007. 75% Grenache (Garnacha) and 25% Tempranillo, this wine was perfect for the lamb chops: rich, berry like fruit (almost like a Zin) but not as hefty in alcohol nor mouth feel, it was still full-bodied enough to stand up to the lamb.  

The "one-world" profile of the meal made me realize that the flavors involved, while originating in various corners of the globe, (Europe, South America, Japan) combined in a way that all of these cuisines would recognize. A small amount of richly flavored meat, a beautiful, simple starch. A piquant salsa/relish/condiment. Umami in the Green Goddess dip provided by a touch of anchovy paste was another cross-cultural connection. The name for the savory flavor, umami, comes from the Japanese language as it was a Japanese scientist who discovered it.

Chimichurri 

In honor of the attempted universal language (is there anyone reading this who is old enough to remember this Kumbayah period in American education?) - I give you:

Esperanto Chimichurri

Place in small food processor, blender or mortar and pestle:

• one handful of fresh herbs - oregano leaves, mint, parsley
• one large clove of garlic, rough chopped
• two small cloves of black garlic, rough chopped
• S&P, olive oil to desired texture
• top with sherry vinegar to brighten.

Serve with lamb chops or be really adventurous and try with fried Spam!

 

•  For an authentic chimichurri and short ribs recipe, please visit my friend Rebecca Caro's gorgeous blog: From Argentina with Love. See Florencia's Chimichurri.

 

 

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Tavolo is restaurateur Chris Douglass latest ouevre. Conveniently located steps from the end of the Ashmont line, Douglass has positioned his latest venture literally and figuratively in the midst of change.

Last week I was invited to a media dinner and having stumbled on this location en route to another dinner months ago, I thought it was high time to come back for a visit. Change seems to be the theme for Douglass these days and who would be surprised if there were few mis-steps along the way. There is no growth without it. Douglass is just coming off the closing of Icarus one of the most successful restauarants in Boston's South End. Three decades ago he was one of the first fine dining restaurants in there. Anthony Spinazzola's 1981 review notes the surrounding squalor of the South End at the time that Icarus opened: "...an oasis amid the squalor, debris and broken glass of the unswept streets that surround it."

One of my dining companions was shocked at how this Dorchester neighborhood had changed since the old days when she lived there. With a Tire Center across the street and MBTA construction all around, this still has the feel of a neighborhood that has not yet arrived. In that context, the fact that the restaurant hasn't quite yet found its footing, can be forgiven. Certainly, Douglass is fearless when staking out a new location to feed. For that alone, he is to be commended. Icarus' flight in the South End was far more successful than its namesake's yet no less ambitious in its origins.

And, there's much to recommend Tavolo: easy access to public transportation, free parking, a light airy and casual atmosphere, bustling bar business that invites you to pull up a stool and watch the game. I was particularly looking forward to pasta since I'd seen many an email announcing the Pasta Tour- a great idea of "touring" Italy through her pastas. I'm a huge fan of discovering another place through its food.

Indeed, we were served gnocchi that were light as air, a good sign that the kitchen knows their pasta. Unfortunately, it was oversalted which is easy to do with both pancetta and pecorino romano in the sauce. Local fava beans were a sweet touch. Salt is an easy correction to make and given the saltiness of at least a couple of my dishes, is one that could use some attention here. "Max's Meatballs" were huge and light again showing deft hands but heavy on the salt.

Being the sustainable seafood maven that I am, I asked about the swordfish. I got the familiar "we have a great purveyor" answer when I asked where it was from and how it was caught. As readers of this blog know, I am not a fan of reliance on a purveyor's assurances that all is well and sustainable with their fish. (See The One that Got Away - about my seafood dinner at Via Matta.) The swordfish involtini was rendered well but could easily have been made with a sustainable selection. Duck breast over farro evoked the perfectly roasted duck that first impressed me at Icarus. I could have eaten that duck all night, but the farro (a favorite nutty chewy grain) was lost in a sauce that lacked the clarity and strength of the duck. Blueberry Genetti Cake was perfect. Not too sweet, it managed to hit just the right note to end the meal. 

Maybe it's a quibble, but I would not lead with "we're still trying to get things right" message. I'd prefer a strong articulation of "what we are." It's okay to acknowledge some accommodation to local tastes (e.g. they're adding more entrees to the menu as they have at Ashmont Grill), but I came away with the sense that they are a restaurant in search of an identity. Then again, it's a neighborhood that is re-defining its own and maybe that's okay. 

I saw none of the crayons I was warned to expect, but the cutest little boy with a Red Sox cap came toddling by with his Dad when I was being seated. It's clearly a family-friendly atmosphere. With the blue and white motif, I kept thinking what a perfect place this is to introduce ocean-friendly selections and showcase the wonderful pasta they are clearly turning out there. Maybe highlight regional Italian coastal cuisine and take a lead showcasing truly sustainable seafood? It has the feel of an upscale version of the Tavernas one finds on the Mediterranean. One of the things I love most about European and South American "taverns" like this is their multi-generational atmosphere which is often bustling, fun and relaxed all at the same time. We have too few of these sorts of establishments here in the states. 

I would sign up for pasta classes, or come back for drinks at the bar over a Sox or Pats game. I'd love to try more of the pastas and pizza here, too. Let's hope the expansion of the Main Dishes portion of the menu replaces the two endangered fish (Cod and Halibut) with sustainable alternatives. Most entrees come in around $20 making dinner for two an affordable option.

Late night menu is available Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Some of the most interesting items are on the Antipasti and Appetizer menus: Sweet Pea soup with mascarpone and mint, for example. White anchovies, marinated olives, roasted peppers, prosciutto and other items come in at $3 each for a build your own Antipasto plate option. Some drinks, antipasti and split a pizza at the bar...sounds like a perfect date night.

If you drive rather than T it, there's plenty of free parking. Where else can you find that in Boston?

So the young Tavolo deserves your attention. Try it out and let me know what you find, maybe I'll see you at the bar!

 

 

 

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Seven years and four days and four hours

A lot happens when you travel. If you’re open to it, you can learn from the experience. Not only about where you go, and who you meet, but also about yourself. If you’re like me, you approach trips with gleeful anticipation. You get to know a new place, if only for a bit. Tasting something you’ve never tried, or smelling new things scenting the air. Hearing unfamiliar sounds. Feeling new or old or forgotten things.

I started a journey seven years ago that was so scary, I sort of had a false start. That is to say, I freaked. I called friends who knew me well and asked what they thought was going on? It was so unlike me to shrink from this adventure. I didn’t recognize myself in this reaction.

Where was I going that made me cower and second-guess my decision? I might just as well have been going to Mars. I was saying yes to a committed dating relationship with a solid guy. Ruh roh.  

How do I know it was seven years ago? Because my husband of 4.5 years took me to dinner at the place we shared our first date, seven years ago on Saturday. Table 23 at Les Zygomates. A little deuce in the front of the restaurant, a little too small for dinner, really. But in our first date, which lasted four hours, we didn’t notice. It was the only first date I’d ever had where I didn’t look at my watch.

When the last server stopped by our table to ask us to just pull the door shut behind us as we left, only then did we realize that we were the last ones left in the place! No more diners, no more employees. Tables cleared and bar re-stocked. Set for lunch the next day. What?? Four hours? Really?

Four Days

 

Okay, four and half. That’s how long it took us to cross the country from Irvine, California to Boston, MA (see Yermo Be There). All these years later, I was still a little nervous about making the cross-country trip. The last time I’d done the trip was with a boyfriend from college. During that trip, right around Chicago, I solidified my position on gun control. Having achieved a completely homicidal state, I had a moment of clarity: “Thank God there’s no gun in my hand.” Friends, this is only the slightest of exaggerations. I blame it partly on the mis-match between my then soon-to-be-really-this-time-it's-for-good-ex-boyfriend. I blame it partly on the stress of the trip. He wasn’t really a bad person, as he put it he had “massive potential for growth.” He wasn’t an angel either. And I wouldn’t say I was the easiest, most self-actualized person on the planet, at least not this planet anyway. So together...not so good.

But here’s the funny thing about travel. Because it puts us in unfamiliar states of being, it calls up our true nature. The essence of who we are is exposed and we’re prevented from fooling ourselves and everyone else. So what am I saying here, I’m essentially a homicidal maniac at base? Hm, let me re-state this... our abilities to cope with stress, or our lack of the same, that is what is called forth. And maybe a bit of our true potential. (Ask the 8th tech support person I spoke with today about my potential for violence...)

But I digress...where was I going? Oh yes, this destabilizing aspect of travel, this is why travel is the ultimate compatibility test. How does each of us handle it? More importantly, how do we handle it together?

So this trip, how’d I do? We did so well. We laughed every day, we oohed and ahed at a lot of the same things. We agreed on what little detours were worth it (the World’s Largest Truck Stop - see Getting to the Meat of the Matter) and which weren’t (the Kool-Aid Museum). We never even played one audio book. We popped one in somewhere around Eastern Colorado, I think. Then quickly decided we’d rather talk. It took me more time to figure out the CD player than we actually spent trying to listen to a CD!

(Sorry Chiuyee, it was very thoughtful of you and I’m sure they’re great!)

In seven years, we’ve traveled to Antarctica and back, to Vancouver, Toronto, New Orleans, Florida, Maryland, New York, the Berkshires, Las Vegas, and across the country. All in the blink of an eye. Our journey has included births and deaths, suffering and joy. I’m still learning about myself in ways that surprise me, I think he is, too. We're learning how to be better, together. I don’t have any fear looking forward. I know it will be filled with sweet moments and laughs just like the trip so far.

Thanks Doc, I love you! And, we have a date May 16, 2010 - Table 23.

 

 

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