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Jacqueline Church
Celebrating Seafood and Screening The End of the Line PDF Print E-mail
Monday, 08 February 2010 18:50

Kicking off the 2010 Celebrate Seafood Dinner Series NEAQ Chef Tim Ridge and Guest Chef Brendon Bashford of the Fairmont Battery Wharf delighted guests with entertaining demos and delicious fare.

We started with Marvesta Shrimp in a saffron scented cream soup. Marvesta is an example of land-based aquaculture that is without the problems associated with other off-shore aquaculture.

Here Chef Ridge shows guests how to make the red pepper vinaigrette that would top our Cod Cakes and White Bean Ragoût. White beans are a perfect foil for these crispy fish cakes, the roasted red pepper vinaigrette adds the right piquant note to the dish. Ridge allows the use of jarred red peppers as a time-saver. My trick: roast the peppers until black under a broiler then remove with tongs to a brown paper bag and close it. In a few minutes the charred skins will slip off the luscious roasted red peppers which you can then use in sandwiches and salads, or in an elegant vinaigrette as here.

These light and crispy cod cakes were paired with a Nebbiolo Rosé. Nebbiolo is reputed to be a finicky grape, rarely grown outside it's native Italy. Trinchero Vineyards Amador County Terra D'Oro blends 6% Syrah for depth and balance.

The question of Cod. (More on this below) For now, know this cod was Pacific Cod which is neither over-fished nor approaching that status. Pacific cod from the Gulf of Alaska an East Bering Sea or Aleutian Islands area fall within the purview of Alaska's Constitutionally mandated and carefully monitored fisheries management. Look for this cod frozen, year round or fresh in the Fall and Winter.

 

Chef Bashford (a real advocate for sustainable seafood) shares a light moment with Lydia Bergen Associate Director of Strategy & Outreach Sustainable Fisheries Initiative. Lydia gracefull emcees these dinners adding conservation information along the way.

 

Barramundi is a prime example of sustainable aquaculture. People often think all aquaculture is bad. A further inquiry into the field of aquaculture shows that, in fact, there are good and bad examples of how it's done. One of the problems with most aquaculture is the "fish in: fish out" ratio. That is, for fish like salmon which are carnivorous, the fish that must be caught to feed the salmon can equal up to 6 times the fish produced. The pressure on the fish population is certainly not reduced in those situations. Another problem with many aquaculture operations is the escape problem and the disease and waste. To read more about Aquaculture issues click that link to go to the Seafood Watch website of Monterey Bay Aquarium.

 

To read more about our New England Aquarium and their Celebrate Seafood series, click here. The next dinner features Chef Greg Griffie of 606 Congress.

 

 

 

Slow Food Boston Screens - The End of the Line

I was honored to be an invited panelist at the Slow Food Boston screening of The End of the Line. Really recommend seeing it if you have the chance. If I were reviewing the film from only a cinematic standpoint, I'd have some quibbles with editing but overall I think it's a dramatic wake up call for anyone interested in learning more about the global impacts of fishing practices.

Along with me on the panel were Niaz Dorry of the Northwest Atlantic Marine Alliance, and Jason Clermont Conservation Associate and Wild Fisheries expert at the New England Aquarium. It was my first time meeting Niaz and Jason I know through the Aquarium and through Teach A Chef to Fish.

Pretzels and twisted logic -

I'm hearing Steely Dan and thinking of the gift of homemade soft pretzels from Mary Reilly, Chef & Owner of The Savory Kitchen. We couldn't have known but those pretzels keep presenting themselves in my mind as a perfect metaphor for what disappointed me in the event. While the WSJ reports that fully 1/3 of the US population shops at Wal-Mart weekly there was actual applause at the suggestion that the solution (to saving our oceans) is do away with big box stores. It seems little of my remarks got captured in the summary on the Slow Food blog, but plenty of column inches were given to Niaz' remarks and her subsequent email. While I respect and support the work she's doing, I disagree with the approach that says the only answer is for everyone to buy only from CSFs and CSAs. I disagree with the position that says it's better to support local fishermen fishing depleted stocks of cod than to buy more sustainable fish elsewhere. Niaz and I had a lively debate before the panel started and I think the audience benefitted from having at least the three perspectives she, Jason and I shared.

The summary on the Slow Food blog seems to take the approach I fear too many people in that room shared. The Slow Food way is the only way.

Simplicity loves a villain.

I urged the audience to think not in "either/or" and suggested that "both/and" is a better approach. Let's face it, if we ignore the big box stores, and the people who shop there, our oceans will empty. These insular meetings where it's all choir and no outsiders aren't going to do a thing to change mass public behaviors. Same thing when I saw Food Inc. I would hazard a guess that not one person in the room was coming from an "uninformed but curious" place.

We can wait for the eradication of big box stores while the oceans are overfished, ignoring the progress that is made in places like Target, Loblaw (Canadian grocery chain), WalMart. I'm no apologist for them, believe me, but if the assumption is that "we" avoid them so "everyone" should, that's just not practical. The reality is that these stores are here, and  I don't see anyone predicting their disappearance anytime soon. I don't believe most of America is ready to adopt the "Colloquia'" values and only buy from small, local, artisanal producers. Even if "everyone" agreed in principle with "us" that it's the best way, it's beyond the means of many families and the resources we have here in Boston are not universal. [For an excellent take on the power of incremental change and "big tent" thinking see: Another Assault on the SOLE Food Movement by Kurt Michael Friese.]

I suggested that it's better to have Target and WalMart sourcing sustainable seafood than not. I'm not sure if anyone else in the room was willing to entertain that premise.

The wallet cards (dismissed outright by Niaz) were actually produced by a couple of members of the audience who proved my point: they have used these cards as an introduction to better buying habits, as a way to learn how to make more sustainable seafood choices! I pointed out that the cards themselves are not the ultimate solution, but that they are in fact, backed by science which can be found at the website. This tends to be dismissed or ignored by those who discount the value of the cards.

I did "show and tell" introducing the audience to Rick Moonen's Fish Without a Doubt, to Jill Lambert's A Good Catch, to Casson Trenor's Sustainable Sushi, both available here. I mentioned the three types of sustainability: economic, social and environmental and used South Asian farmed shrimp as an example of one product that impinges on each. I shared the Mangrove Action Project.

I lamented that the "debate" is often framed as "either fisherman or ocean conservation" but guess what made it into the summary? Almost none of the resources I offered for further learning for consumers. Just Niaz' position about supporting CSFs. I brought up Alaska's model fisheries management and said if we'd had that type of fishery management here we'd still have healthy cod stocks. Privately, I shared that my hesitation with CSFs is that my friends that have signed on get "cod, cod, cod." The response was "That's not true." (I don't think three of my friends lied to me simply because it is emphatically denied.) My attempts at getting accountability for habitat preservation and by-catch reduction went unanswered previously, but Niaz promises to answer my questions, I'll follow up with her and report back.

For further review:

For anyone who's still hanging on here, Thanks! Let me share the additional resources that didn't make it to the Slow Food post:

This article The Price of Fish - by David Hanson in the New Zealand-based Good Magazine is an excellent overview of many of the issues we discussed yesterday. The failure of fishery management and public policy maker's reticence to make change, the MSC certification that has raised questions about their methodology, and more. It's well-worth a read.

My assignment was to bring the issues to the local level, what can one person do?

My answer is simple.

  1. Begin learning about more sustainable choices you can make and prepare at home.
  2. Make your preferences for sustainable seafood choices known to the fishmonger, to the grocery store, to the fishermen in the CSFs, to the restaurants you frequent.
  3. Use tools like the Huber 5 step plan for talking to your fishmonger, the Seafood Watch tools like the "Thank you for serving sustainable seafood" or "Become Aware."
  4. Share these tools and resources with your favorite restaurant chefs.
  5. Ask questions. Keep asking.

And now, let me ask those of you who have seen the film, or even if you haven't, where do you come down on the issues? Have you joined a CSF? What was your experience? How do you find sustainable seafood? Have you found a good fishmonger? What do you think about labeling schemes like the Marine Stewardship Council?

Let's hear it!

 

 
Sustainable Sushi and End of the Line Screening PDF Print E-mail
Monday, 01 February 2010 04:36

Chef Bun Lai Shares Sustainable Sushi with the East Coast

Sustainable Sushi is a growing trend. We are happy for our West Coast friends, they have Tataki, that started it all. And others have joined in (see Casson Trenor's round up here including Mashiko's and Bamboo, here.) But, we've been a little jealous and eager for someone here on this coast to step up.

Now the East Coast joins the cause with a new menu at an award-winning sushi restaurant, Miya's in New Haven, CT. I know, you hear New Haven and you're thinking pizza, right? Me too, but now Pepe's and Sal's have got some competition for mindshare. Check this You Tube video clip and check out Miya's!

Chef Bun - we'll see you soon!

 

End of the Line and Panel Discussion with Yours Truly

If you live in the Boston area and want to see the film The End of the Line - come to the Posner Hall at Tufts Friedmans School, 200 Harrison Avenue (off Kneeland St.) The film is being offered as part of Slow Food Boston's Film Series. I'll be on the post-film panel and we'll make it home before half-time of the Superbowl!

Film rolls at 3:30. Come and bring your questions, share your thoughts, on the panel with me are director of conservation at the New England Aquarium Heather Tausig and activist Niaz Dorry, who works with groups such as Cape Ann Fresh Catch and the Northwest Atlantic Marine Alliance. They will help us learn about issues facing the New England coastline, our local fishing industries and the mouths that depend on them.

 

Please do join us and our co-sponsor, Slow Food Tufts, for this eye-opening and thought-provoking film. Cost is $5, payable at the door by cash or check.

 
Celebrate Seafood with Chef-driven Demo Dinners PDF Print E-mail
Wednesday, 20 January 2010 18:59

The New England Aquarium kicks off their Celebrate Seafood Dinner series on Tuesday January 26. Each of these dinners features three courses paired with wines and chef demonstrating the technique, answering questions. These dinners are a delicious introduction to sustainable seafood. Even tried and true seafood fans get to learn about new fish species, like Opakapaka and new dishes like Opakapaka Tartar Niçoise (see below.)

The chefs are expert, and entertaining. The format is informal enough that a lot of guests aks questions and share comments. The food is great. Come join me!

This Tuesday's Guest chef:

•   Brendon Bashford, executive chef, the Fairmont Battery Wharf, Boston

And features:

• U.S. farm-raised abalone, U.S. farm-raised shrimp, wild-caught Pacific cod

 

Chef Bashford was one of my presenting chefs for Teach a Chef to Fish. Chef Bashford has been instrumental in educating diners about delicious alternatives to threatened species like bluefin tuna and Patagonian Toothfish (AKA Chilean Seabass.)

 

The first one I attended included another longtime advocate of sustainable, local food, Andy Husbands (Tremont 647, Sister Sorrel). Dungeness crab Momos. I'm a big fan of Andy, too.

 

 

Chef Bashford and Chef Husbands will be both be panelists at the Teach a Chef to Fish panel at the Boston Seafood Show.

  • To read more about Teach a Chef to Fish.
  • Are you a chef who wants to incorporate more sustainable seafood on your menu?
  • Are you a home cook who wants to learn more?
  • Just someone who enjoys a great meal, a little chat and some nice wines?

Buy tickets here, $75 for non members, $65 for members. Membership has great beneifts. Have you seen the cool new penguins (they're blue!) or the jellies?

Live Blue!

 
Of Dough and Deadlines PDF Print E-mail
Tuesday, 12 January 2010 17:52

The universe does have a strong sense of irony. Of this I am sure. Just as I hit a slump, overwhelmed by the to-do list, the backlog from December, the seemingly endless seduction-panic cycle of organizing that attack plan to get out from under... I get an email from a fellow writer.

Her sister is in Boston and considering food writing as a career after graduation. Would I be willing to meet her for coffee and discuss?

Julia if you're reading this now, the first thing most any of us will tell you is "don't quit your day job." In my case, I'd already lost that to a pink slip. In your case, you haven't gotten one yet. But the point is this: it is exceedingly difficult to survive on this thing called writing. I've done plenty of consulting to career-changers and really, who's had more experience than I? So I'm always delighted to meet new people and share what I've learned and hopefully help them start off a little further along than I was when I started.

Some folks do, of course make their living as a writer. Precious few. Here are some things for you to consider.

A good starting point is Dianne Jacob's Will Write for Food (please click here or on the image to buy from my Powell's Bookshelf.) My dog-eared copy sits on my desk at all times. I noted today that new graduates like Julia may not even recognize that the F O O D on the book cover are typewriter keys sitting on a dinner plate. It's clever but it also shows you how quickly our field has changed. Who writes on a typewriter? Next edition should be keyboard keys (or maybe that Mac Talk speech recognition thing, Jaden?) Dianne recently started her own blog and is, as I "type," in Mexico presenting on the topic of making a living at the Food Blogger Boot Camp organized by Jaden Hair of Steamy Kitchen. Jaden, who ironically, will be the first to say she hates to write!

The way that I've seen people make money in this field is to develop expertise and that people will pay for, just as Jaden, Dianne and others have done. So many conferences and panels discuss "whether" you can make money by food blogging, only a few address "how." The bottom line is that the pressure for good content to be given up for free ("for exposure") is only getting worse. Writing online is, by and large, not where one can make a living. You can build a platform, a following there. You can hone your skills there. But pay the mortgage? Hardly. I am eager to hear what the boot camp teaches. Maybe there will be a download those of us who couldn't go to Mexico can buy?

The successful writers I've met have combined old world publishing and new world marketing savvy to cobble together a living. They are relentless. They have developed a huge, varied skill set. They know how to market themselves and are willing and able to do so all the time. Jaden is a perfect example, she writes (she uses speech recognition gear, which is why her blog feels so conversational), she photographs, she got her first book published without even engaging an agent and shot most all of the photography herself. She's a regular on her local TV station, doing food and cooking segments.

Her story is quite inspiring and I get exhausted contemplating how I could accomplish in a week what she does in a day. And there it is. The hairy truth. This is hard.

Of Dough and Deadlines

Making dough from writing. Baking, while on deadline. It's not either or, I'm literally developing a recipe (today for biscotti) while finishing edits to the piece it will accompany. I'm also contemplating the next bread I'll bake for a book review and post. I'm learning how to be a better baker, surely some of my readers would benefit from what I'm learning. (And thanks to Bruce of The Bread List for this nifty and inspiring title, check out his excellent bread bakers' blog!)

I have three leads, strike that, four to follow up on, and an exciting pitch to a publication that I would die to get into. Everything is important AND urgent. The old time management gurus used to say it was either one or the other. I don't really think they have an answer for the realities of how this field works, today. The balance between doing and writing about doing; and pitching about the writing and the doing, it's not an easy beast to tame. I battle daily.

I don't find that scheduling things works that well. "I will concentrate only on pitches on Mon, Wed, Fri." Sounds good until you get a call on Tues with a hot opportunity. The maintenance of a blog and website takes time, every day. It's also often unpredictable. The maintenance of social networking streams (which is partly very important network and platform building, partly a break to socialize at the virtual water cooler) takes time, every day. Keeping up with all the blogs in your feed reader, takes time, every day. I let that one slide and what happened? Someone went and had a baby. In November. That's how behind I am on reading HIS blog, didn't even know he was expecting.

Keeping abreast of the hot topics will help prioritize what you pitch. Better not pitch something that magazine or its competitor JUST published. Conversely, if three of the top bloggers in your field are writing about a topic you want to pitch to a magazine, it may help you make the argument that the public is interested in that topic now.

A few truths I've discovered

1. You must begin with a healthy amount of intellectual curiosity.

People often ask me "where do you get all your ideas to write about?" If that's the question you're asking, you'd better consider other career options. It's never once been my issue, finding things to write about. You must have a curious mind to do this work. I believe that it's part of the baseline. Without it, you will be sunk.

2. You must be relentless.

If you stop pitching and networking and building those relationships, your pipeline will disappear and it's tough to rebuild. Forget about vacations. You will not be discovered quietly writing your own little blog, alone over there in the corner, no matter how brilliant you may be. Pitch or die.

3. You must be able to pick yourself up, even when it seems ridiculously impossible.

It helps a lot if you have an understanding spouse. A good friend. A circle of writers for support. If you have all of the above, you will be in a better position to succeed. I have all of the above and am curious and relentless and still it's difficult. There will be droughts, if not of ideas, of inspiration. Of motivation. Find a way to get through it.

Resources are there, good writers, good networkers, some great sites and folks who willingly share information and learning. Find what you can offer, accept the help that's there, don't forget to say "thanks" as well as "please."

4. You must find a way to maintain discipline.

If not an old school, daily organizer type schedule, you have to find a way to maintain all the things that you will need to maintain if you are to succeed as an independent writer. Something's wrong with your computer or networking? You cannot call the IT department. That's you. Don't feel like reading the journals, magazines, blogs in your field? Too bad. And though writers have for years relied on muses, I find that they can be unreliable. The frequency of your inspiration will be greatly enhanced by discipline. I know, it's not very sexy but there you have it.

5. You must be thick-skinned.

Rejection is part of the territory. If you're not comfortable with it, you will pitch less. Which is the same as walking away from water in a desert. What can you learn from rejections? This is true in pitching articles, in pitching books. If you can't learn from rejections, you're missing a big opportunity. Listen carefully to what they may have to offer you. Use it to get better.

6. You must be willing to learn.

Everyone says "of course I am" but this really means taking criticism, not just the fun parts. Working with an editor who may be unreasonable (a "PITA" is how one writing guru describes them: Pain In The Ass) is hard. It may also be helpful. Do they have a good point about your writing? Maybe they're being completely reasonable and it's still hard to hear. Either way, get used to it. If you're going to get better it won't happen without being open to learning, sometimes the hard way. I'm lucky to have found a great editor at Nourish Network and I'm turning in decent work and learning lots, too.

Learning is not limited to the stuff you want to learn about, either. HTML, photo editing and more are the building blocks. Without learning a broad set of editing skills you will be trying to drive a car without wheels.

7. You must really love to write, to read, and to edit.

Yes, to edit. Most of us don't. We like to think we are so brilliant the written word will flow from our fingertips in perfect form. Nu-unh. Doesn't work like that. See number 6 above. And number 5. And number 4. (For transparency's sake, and Julie's edification: I have been thinking about this piece for a couple of days. The inspiration that catalyzed the thinking struck today, though I outlined last night before bed. I've edited this four or five seven or eight times already, changed some coding and will likely find errors or things to smooth out tomorrow when I read it again.)

Really if you go all the way back through this list, I would say any success I've had comes from the privilege I enjoy to pursue a career that feeds my many interests. While I work at getting better at the mechanics, the science, of crafting the career; I also enjoy the art of writing.

So, the next bread baking will wait. Today I prioritize the the dough, the edits, the pitches, and the deadlines. Tomorrow I'll take another crack at that to do list...

 

If you enjoy bread baking here's a little slideshow of my reintroduction to it:

 

 

 

 
Cookbook Contest Winners Announced: Organic Marin, Berghoff Cafe, Cooking the Cowboy Way PDF Print E-mail
Friday, 18 December 2009 01:18

November Cookbook Giveaway - finally - I have three winners as promised. Sheese you wouldn't think it's so hard to track down a prize winner but two subscribers never got back to me. Maybe they thought my email notification of their prize was connected to a Nigerian banker...

Anyway, if you're reading this and thinking "Oh! That's why that email I deleted sounded a teensy bit familiar..." contact me, I have great cookbooks in search of good homes.  You know that random number generator is really a fun tool, here's what it helped me find from my last 30 subscribers: Jeffrey, Karie, and Carol. Books are on their way shortly. Enjoy! (Titles are links to Andrews McMeel website for each title.)

Organic Marin - Recipes from Land to Table
by Tim Porter & Farina Wong Kingsley



50 recipes from 16 of America’s most esteemed organic farms, organized by season. Recipes from 25 of the Bay area’s most beloved restaurants. Recipes for the vegetarian table (Tunisian Vegetable Tagine) and Braised Short Ribs with Candied Meyer Lemon Gremolata for the meat eaters in your family. Side bars throughout this book introduce you to the farms and restaurants that make Marin such an enchanting place.

"Organic Marin gives you a taste of what has become one of America's most vibrant local food scenes; indeed, this beautiful book is the next best thing to eating there."
--Michael Pollan, author of The Omnivore's Dilemma and In Defense of Food

Congratulations Jeffrey!

Berghoff Cafe Cookbook - Berghoff Family Recipes for Simple, Satisfying Food
by Carlyn Berghoff with Nancy Ross Ryan



A slice of Chicago culinary history from the fourth generation of this Chicago restaurant family. Carlyn shares recipes from the cafe founded by her great-grandfather more than 110 years ago. Many are reworked to address the time constraints and nutritional goals of busy families today. See for example, Five Dishes - Ten Ingredients.

Check the Berghoff website for great old pictures and family restaurant story. And don’t skip Carlyn’s tips for a hassle free Thanksgiving. Good tips for entertaining on any holiday.


Congratulations Karie!

Cooking the Cowboy Way Recipes Inspired by Campfires, Chuck Wagons, and Ranch Kitchen

by Grady Spears with June Naylor



The smell of fresh cut hay, the creak of a leather saddle, simple food and starry skies; if these appeal to you, this book is for you. Cowboy turned chef Grady Spears with June Naylor cover cowboy culture and the cuisine that both reflects it and nourishes it. From Canada to Mexico, Florida to Texas the range of cowboy lifestyles are captured in these simple, straightforward recipes.

No matter how much we like sustainable fish or turkey, we all (almost all of us, anyway) love a good steak now and then. Here's a recipe from the Cooking the Cowboy Way.

Congratulations Carol!


John’s Ancho Strip Steaks
From Cooking the Cowboy Way: Recipes Inspired by Campfires, Chuck Wagons, and Ranch Kitchens

by Grady Spears and June Naylor
Serves 4

Like every rancher I’ve ever met, John Elick loves to grill a big steak for supper. We had some ancho chiles—those are dried poblano chiles—on hand, so we added them to the steak rub we made up when we were cooking together. It added a great smoky flavor.

  • 4 (10-ounce) New York strips
  • 3 to 4 teaspoons vegetable oil
  • 1 dried ancho chile, seeds and stem removed
  • 1 cup firmly packed brown sugar
  • ½ cup kosher salt

Wipe the steaks dry with a paper towel, then rub them with the vegetable oil. Place the ancho chile in a food processor and pulse until the chile is shredded as finely as possible. Combine the shredded chile with the brown sugar and kosher salt in a bowl to create a rub. With your hands, coat the steaks with the rub. Prepare a charcoal, gas, or wood-burning grill; over medium-hot, ash-covered coals, grill the steaks to desired doneness, 11 to 13 minutes for medium rare, or an internal temperature of 145°F. Turn the steaks once during cooking.

 
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